Showing posts with label Surf. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Surf. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
My Jaws Hurt
Today, Jaws was it. It was the epicenter of the North Shore. Conditions were pretty all time: Light off shore winds, swell steady 30 to 40 (with a couple of 50's) Twenty or so jet skis in the line up for the mid-morning session. I am sure it hammered all day long. I was talking to a friend and she had mentioned when she was in high school there only 10 of them watching Jaws go. Today, the alarm bell was rung, and everyone from the hard-core local to the pasty white tourist, rocking a bright pink leisure suit rolling down to the cliff in her high heeled shoes cackling on her cell phone. I just had to smile.
Friday, December 4, 2009
The Next Best Thing.
A funny thing happened on the way to the beach today. We had no kites, and there was no wind. So, we surfed. Just down from Lanes is Ho'opkia. This spot, when on, is pretty damn good. The swell was dropping: 6 to 12 foot faces rolling in, with the occasional sleeper set. On the way out, I commented to my buddy Sam that it had been a long time since I had surfed last. "No worries, we'll just catch a couple" Easy as that. Being a kiter, I sometimes forget how fun surfing is, and how outta shape I really am. (surfshape)I just have to laugh at not being powered up by my kite all the time. The paddle, the timing, the takeoff: all a part of the game. Yet, I was a little off. We actually were taking some video, and the usual problems arose....Where are they? I think I got em? Is that...no...? Great wave...oh no.. the power turned off! So as it turns out you should have seen us, dropping in on the bombs, sliding into the pocket, getting shacked... Right? Right.
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