Be prepared

Today, like many days on the islands, things happened quick. The wind shot up from 10 to 11 fast, a kite switch was in order. Also, the surf really picked up all day long. Now, I was out there and caught some bombs and it was incredible. I bring this up because when I go out the back I always stay within my means. I saw a lot of twin tips farther out than usual. Most of the time, this is OK, but to me as a life long surfer I feel that these riders are not experienced enough to handle the really big surf. I have some simple recommendations if your decide to take on the bigger waves. 1. Learn how to ride a strapped or strapless surfboard. These boards have much better control in the heavy water. 2. If you are going to do tricks...stay inside. 3. Watch, learn and take it slow. 4. Be prepared to dump everything, get pounded and swim in 200 yards. Don't assume someone will be there to get you in. 5. Where a floaty...that way if you end up ditching your gear, it will be easier. 6. Fly and ride with a partner. 7. Lastly: There is no shame if you stay inside. 30+ with 10 to 15 ft sets is OK to watch too. Stay safe and good luck